Not to be mistaken for the touristy Bar El Federal in San Telmo, Chef Paula Comparatore’s restaurant in Retiro is an absolute gem. Specializing in Patagonian cuisine in a rustic, yet thoroughly modern environment, this has become our “go-to” BA restaurant. Start with the sublime empanadas, then blindly point your finger to any entrée. They’re ALL THAT good!
San Martin 1054, between Paraguay and Alvear
Based on its Spanish-Italian heritage, you’d expect a LOT of great Italian restaurants in BA, but actually, they’re few and far between. La Baita, however, hits the mark. From amazing and ample antipasti to hand-made pastas and a perfect ragu, this Palermo mainstay is the quickest way to get your Italian fix.
Thames 1603 (corner of Honduras) • labaita-restaurante.com.ar
Hernan Gipponi at the Fierro Hotel
Located in a hip, boutique hotel, this jewelbox of a restaurant delivers a phenomenal nine-course meal for less than fifty bucks that rivaled our meal at Per Se in NYC. The wine list is presided over by the president of the Argentinean sommelier society and the floor is warmly watched by GM Martin Bruno, so in addition to gorgeous food, you’ll have some of the best service in BA.
Soler, 5862 in the Hotel Fierro • hgrestaurant.com.ar
For nightlife, Buenos Aires doesn’t get rocking until after 2AM, so take an early evening nap, then head out for dinner around 10PM. That should have you out and ready to party when the clubs open. Don’t miss Niceto Club for “Club 69” on Thursdays! Belly-dancers, transvestites and more occupy the floor of this club for an evening of dancing and colorful shows until the sun comes up.
Kristian and his wife, Heather, live in Shandon with two furry kids, Corgis Mason and Rudy. His love of rustic Italian cuisine and wine shines in Forest Acres through Rosso Trattoria Italia, a restaurant where attention to craft and local sourcing have made it an instant classic. rossocolumbia.com/kristian.html